Mk7 Golf R 2016 Update

Not diligently writing lately, bogged down by work especially now with the bigger portfolio. I miss the days where it was just me and I can choose if I want to work. That’s what I actually signed up for honestly but I guess I can no longer deny my destiny, to enslave myself to work!

I enjoy my work and I don’t mind the hours and after-five jobs, 13 years in the financial industry, I can say that I have almost seen it all. But this is totally different from just work, a business is not just work. In the past, you can shout at your colleague and probably get away. In a business, especially sole prop, even if the customer is being unreasonable, you can’t even complaint. Customers are always right and that has always been a mantra which I sometimes break. LOL.

Anyway 2016, new year new challenges I guess. I haven’t been modding my own car much as well, no time and I am dead tired when I got home and after a day trying at work with customer’s car, I think its enough for the day. Well, trying to kick-start the hobby again for 2016.


I am huge on performance, minimalist in terms of looks. Honestly, I love the setup that I have had on; the Oz Ultras were perfect, except that its 19″, it wouldn’t suit my tracking needs. I have long skipped track day, spend most of the time with my clients even on track day and probably working on race days too but I seriously need a hobby. All work and no play makes kev a dull man.

Anyway, the new setup is in, I am traded in my beautiful OZ Ultras paired with yellow TTRS 4 pistons brake kit for the Volks Racing CE28N and stock brakes. Yes, its stock brakes! Not by choice but 370mm TTRS rotors are not 18″ wheels friendly. Most ideal size should be 355mm and slightly stretched should be maximum 365mm for the 18″. The TTRS is by far one of the best OEM brake system that I have experienced – much better than RS 8 pistons, well that’s personal opinion; wouldn’t have sold it if it fits.


Of course there are wheels such as 18″ Ultras which will fit the TTRS brakes but you need to move the wheel balancing weights accordingly to avoid the calipers. Not much hassle but I rather just keep it simple and so I am still looking for a new set of brakes.

I have two sets of alcons in my inventory which comes with 365mm disc, probably one of the best brake kits out there but I am hesitating to put them on. Trying, learning new experiences with various products is part of my job scope and so the search continues.

Why CE28n? I always wanted to buy this set of wheels since MK5 days but never got to it and when opportunity arise, I took a leap of faith – I was skeptical about it, I have done enough research to realised that OZ Ultras are by far, best looking wheels on MK7s.

So far, I am pretty happy with this setup, especially the Direzza Z2 spec which I will talk about in another post. Managed to clock a decent 2.39s in Sepang with this setup, not bad at all. Guess the quest continues, I hope 2016 will be a better year for work life balance.



T9358Fresh from the oven, GFB DV Plus for the MK7 Golf R. Honestly, my DV is quite new but I was a little sick, at home and bored so I took out the tools and started the DIV. Ok, then I found out that I wasn’t that sick after all, just need to sweat a little 😛

I have installed the T9351 on MK7R before, but when GFB launched the new T9359, I bought one just for the heck of it, without thinking of much improvement on the boost since original DV is pretty new. I would be lying to you if I said that this is going to be the best thing since you lost virginity, but its not.

A lot of other products out there today that claims to hold boost, fair enough they do but some in the course of doing that, creates an alter-ego called the lag. Its not something bad but it falls back to economics 101 – opportunity cost, what you have gained for better boost at higher rpm, you lose initial response. I have been using the DV+ since my MK6R, no laggy response and holds (not spike) up to 1.6bar boost so i guess its cool.

There is no right or wrong to that, more importantly is what you aim to achieve, anyway, talk about out of topic, did a DIY install of the GFB. Pretty easy, walk -in the park, when its cold! I can’t imagine anyone installing this when the engine is hot so please chill on your mechanic ya 🙂

Honestly, I can’t really feel much difference – maybe slight, I noticed the boost came a little earlier and held on pretty well over the RPM but, it could be psychological, its hard to prove it without a proper dyno run but, I have been lazy these days. My dyno expenses exceed RM 1500.00 by 2nd week of the month so I am going to leave it as it is, wait for my intercooler and log the car for actual vs requested boost – that is if no one hijacks it. LOL

For the record;
installation difficulty : Medium to Hard depends how proficient
Tools required :  Torx T30, 5mm metric hex key, hose clamp, gloves. magnet
Instructions are included, make sure you read first and you can’t go wrong. Please make sure you cool down the engine before you do it because its going to tough.

Also becareful with a spring provided by GFB, I almost dropped it so I recommend you have a magnet in hand for those moments. Here’s some pictures I took for the installation.


Make sure you read the instructions before you install. There are good tips inside for example, when remove the plastic on the turbo, to not drop the o ring on the screw..


The almost new diverter valve (DV)


Remember to oil the valve with engine oil


Half way there, becareful when you are handling the spring on your valve. Also, its easier to have the yellow O ring on the GFB and then the valve go on top of it next.


Job done


MK7 GTI Install

Wagner Tuning Competition Intercooler MK7 GTI Installed

It was a last minute decision, we actually had one as some customer of mine decided to install later, so i begged for a favour to let me install it on another mk7 GTI while the rest of the shipment is inbound and I guess we got a winner as well for the installation 😛

MK7 GTI Install

Joke aside, this is really the last piece that was already paid for but thanks to the owner for being so accomodating and let us install this and get it over and done with for the week. Again, with reference to the IAT, mk7 GTI owners with p3car gauges will agree with me on the rising IAT on WOT but how much gain can the intercooler push is the question.

Also, thank you to KS Brakes for accomodating a last minute request to install.

MK7GTI Stage 2 with Wagner Tuning

Not too bad but not as great as the MK7 R; 19hp gain and 10nm more torque vs prior which had a lower ambient temp but not like it matters, you are going to need an intercooler with our weather here and this is just another salient point – that you are paying for some power upgrade as well 🙂

Some observation that I had while logging this car.

1. IAT doesn’t drop below 42 on dyno but on the road, it will hit around 38 degrees on WOT which means lack of wind velocity on the dyno to cool down the car but on the road, we may see different output. In reference to the video below, you will see the IAT dropping to 38 degrees on WOT and this is how it should be, not the other way round where the IAT goes up;

2. This turbo on MK7 GTI – not sure of the size but if based on older generation platform ko3, is maxed out. No matter what we do, the boost wouldn’t hold after 5k rpm – perhaps a software thingy but the MK7 IHI turbos are known to blown so I guess it could be “a safety net”.

3. 800 kg/h MAF on the intake….  244 g/s, how the heck does this get to 300hp? 300hp is the norm these days, getting above 350 would be a challenge. Defiinitely looking forward to see a MK7 GTI doing that someday.

Anyway, here’s something I would like to share as well. There were claims that certain dyno machines output are higher or less but I would like to point out that its not always the end numbers that matter. Always stack the graph, a simple example would be the same dyno results from today’s ‘exercise’ ;


Same graph but in different correctional factor – one being SAE and the other being STD (the later pic) shows a difference of +-7hp and 9nm torque. The gains between them is almost the same 18-19hp increase. The point that I am trying to make is, if want to trick you, I would have had the graph in STD correctional factor and now you have 312hp as opposed to 306hp that your friend is having. Technically, both of you have similar output but presented in a different way 🙂

Regardless of the correctional factor, the correct way to look at the graph is before and after, if the car makes more power, the lines wouldn’t lie. A lot of argument these on output of the car and etc, doesn’t matter if the dyno is loaded or not, always do a before and after at the same dyno machine and that is all that matters.



MK7 Golf R Stage 2 with Wagner Tuning Intercooler

WagnerTuning Intercooler test on MK7 R

I had an intercooler, well, I had, but it was hijacked by a customer. 😛 The thing with business is, customer is our priority and there is no doubt about it. The moment that you have a business, you will always end up being wrong because customers are always right – and so we were told. Come on, at least let me joke about can or not? (before this gets blown up on social media “what a prick this guys is… “)

Joke aside, I have been testing the Golf MK7 R intake air temp (IAT) via my P3cars gauge after we injected it with some powerful software – some call it remap, never mind the brand because its irrelevant, as I have tried with two different brands and yields similar results.

What’s the observation? 

1. There is a sudden drop in power at high gear (not so obvious in low gears i.e. 1-2-3) when we push the car continously, when I say continously, i mean 20-30 mins consistently from 60km/h to double legal speed limit. I couldn’t figure out why, i thought it was brand A remap so i switched to brand B remap, same thing;

2. I pulled out my VCDS and starting logging, everything looks normal but I didn’t include IAT in my log preset – well there isn’t a need to for the cars i usually handle because they have bigger coolers installed already;

3. I was looking at my p3cars gauge, swapping between EGT (exhaust gas temp) and AFR (air fuel ratio), “ok wat” i thought then I stopped at IAT and spotted 52 degrees IAT during WOT at night! Doesn’t make sense, when you are accelerating hard, cold wind at night should hold the IAT below 50 degrees so I thought I was seeing things. I tried it many times, while cruising around 120-130km/h, IAT between 41-42 degrees, it flies all the way till 52 degrees when you floor it;

4. I further confirmed this again on dyno, car power dropped after 3 runs dragstically – from 304hp to 275hp, almost 10 percent. I never thought the MK7 R intercooler was that bad, I heard some mk7 GTI owners buying Mk7 R intercoolers – actually we already tested the mk7 R cooler on the MK7 GTI even before the remaps were out. Long story short, “same same but different…”

And so, I had the intercooler and it got hijacked, but the good news is, I made one person happy, he is poorer but happy, I am richer and happy as well – i love it when everyone is happy.

Couple of weeks back, I had a Wagnertuning competition intercooler from our partners at Proart Motorsport but instead of installing it on my car, we had installed it on another MK7 R running on stage 2 maps – no changes to the map or any other hardware since last dyno and this is how it looks like, before and after;

MK7 Golf R Stage 2 with Wagner Tuning Intercooler


A lot of people asked me why the graph wasn’t connected – beats me, some say its interference, but it only seems to happen to certain cars, puzzling as well. Never mind that, the point is, significant improvement after the intercooler was installed, around 50hp more – some argued on the differing ambient temp – assuming 1 degree is 10hp, 2 degress is 20hp lower and you still have 30hp gains. Not too shabby. The last time I paid 4.5k for a turbo upgrade, its about 30-40hp gain as well.


Got it logged as well, IAT is good – engine at 94/95% load, IAT at 42 degrees top and this is on a dyno that some argued that its not able to generate real wind velocity – yadi yada.  But point is, if you are going to go for an uprated performance, please consider a proper intercooler instead of getting an intake first. Applies to any country with average 35 degrees ambient temp.

I wish we had more Wagnertuning intercoolers in stock, this is definitely a must for the MK7R but is it good for the mk7 gti? That is what I am going to find out – i hope we have time to install one tomorrow and dyno it too 🙂


Minor Mods for the MK7R

Unlike my mk6R which comes with full spec option, the mk7R is a little on the budget side (my friends call it Poverty-Spec). Doesn’t bother me, in fact I find it quite cute, lets face it – I couldn’t afford the Rich-Spec MK7 R on the 5 doors version and that’s the truth.

I don’t mind the car having no GPS, Reverse sensor and DCC but I am a little upset they didn’t provide reverse sensors. I get all sort out weird stare when I say that this car has no reverse sensor! “even a myvi has it!” was the general comment LOL.

I gotten used to it honestly, I think we are just too pampered by technology, so much so, you wouldn’t need to budge your head to have a look at where you are going. Having said that, there are always time that you will need it and that time that you wonder, wouldn’t it be better to have that beep? 😛

Confession! I can’t stand the fact that a MK7 GTI next to me has folding mirror and I don’t. LOL. I am very particular about how the car looks and if you follow what I have been doing to most of my rides, you know that rule no 1 is, get a new set of rims for the new ride and it should be the priority, which I have not because I can’t afford the 19″ that I liked and I have a set of 17″ already.

Anyway, after reading some forum and all, I bought the necessary parts, very firmed that the coding works on the car and DIY this. This mod is not as easy as it sounds because you need to remove quite a fair bit of panels and screws but then again, I doubt any of you will do this because there are not many Golf R 3 doors running around right? 🙂

Got itchy again today, so I did the rear lights blinker mod, does nothing but just for fun. I remember we went for a convoy with a few M3s and he had this “euro-styled” hazard light. I thought its quite cool but not like I get to see it at all ROFL



New Exhaust Setup for the MK7R

The money tree seems to take forever to grow whenever you are not on payroll. I have been saving for mods and you know la, how “kan cheong” can one be when it comes to modding. In fact, if you ask me, I so wanted the exhaust since I had the car but wallet don’t let lah…

Some friends asked me what is my pick when it comes to the MK7R exhaust system, I replied without a single doubt Milltek. Why?

  1. I have installed it on another MK7R and I love it – especially also I can get them cheaper because I retail them, nothing to hide (nothing related to any NGO discussion :P);
  2. The Mk7 R comes with an existing electronic valves and these Millteks goes on it perfectly as well, although they now have none-valved option – people pay RM16,000 for a set of valved exhaust, why waste it and order the none-valved option? Personal opinion though.

I picked the catless none resonated version – I was at first hesitant, white car and catless is a formulae for yellow bumper but then again, the price of the downpipe is worth at least 2-3 repainting job and although initially, i did plan for a wrap but on second thoughts, I decided that I wasn’t ready to part with 4,500 hard earned moolah.

I wouldn’t usually recommend anyone going for catless and non resonated but with the valved version, I was taking a bet its wouldn’t be that bad. Actually, my concern is the drone, not so much of a noise level. I wanted it loud at first – to re-live my bad boy days, perhaps a little mid life crisis there as well LOL but ya, thinking of that moment when I smoke you with a loud ass pop… but i guess age is catching up, i love the loudness but at the same thing, you have that little angel whispering into your ears, aren’t you too old for this? LOL. You get the drift…

Here’s a clip I made using GoPro mounted on the rear bumper for a sound-check.

Hate to disappoint the Milltek “haters”, this baby doesn’t drone (actually the stock exhaust drone, believe it or not) but its loud. I love the crispy sound track but I personally find it a bit loud for my liking while the 100-cell catted version is much more subtle if you have the budget.

The only issue for me is, at about 160km/h, around 3k rpm, the flaps are wide-open and gets quite loud – no drone but makes you wanna go a little faster to avoid that zone because you would probably sound like a truck on the highway :).

It does sound perfect when you are on WOT, i guess its individual preference and I think I will get a resonator soon unless of course the devil in me prevails but anyone riding shot-gun would agree with me, this is an awesome exhaust system; loud but does not drone and puts a smile on everytime you shift 🙂



REVO Ford Focus RS and the MK7R

The Ford Focus RS is such a beauty. No matter how you see it, whichever angle you take, it looks darn good. I had to “improvise” a little to get the MK7 R par to the Ford Focus RS – actually, the Flow Design Front Lip did a good job in making the MK7R look more appealing.

I guess lowering the car is option, changing the rims is inevitable. Ohhh why my money tree hasn’t grown yet?!


Fatboy 2015 MK6 GTI

Automotive and Photography go hand in hand; I am always fascinated with pictures and when i was young, I love playing with my dad’s Nikon but never really got into it.

When I decided to start on photography again, my DSLR and etc was stolen just after 1 week of ownership and since, I have been living with a Sony NEX-6, fits the bill i guess but anyway, here I go again….

Got the Fatboy running again just last week- fitted with new bumper and tried some shots after car wash.


Help! I need a name for “it”

I suck at naming my car – some people are so natural at giving their cars names, but I can’t seem to do it. I just find it weird to have a name for the car but it will be good for reference instead of “it”.  My friends call him StromTrooper which I kinda like it. Anyone care to give some input? LOL

Took it out to nearby and snapped some pics after cleaning it up. To be honest, the white paint drives me nuts, I can’t stand to see it all dirtied up. Not such a bad thing, car wash is pretty good exercise 😛

P3Cars Gauge for MK7R DIY Installed

You know one of those days when you feel a bit lazy and cooks up an excuse to skip work, this is one of them but i call this a pre-GST implementation syndrome. It was very difficult dragging my arse to work on that day so I decided to do a little DIY myself – well actually I did most of the P3 gauges installation myself 🙂 but since its on my own car, let’s call it DIY.


Coffee is for celebration after

Very important that you have the right tools for the job. Especially the two red plastic looking tool – they are called the trim/moulding tools which is basically plastic tools for your remove the air vent without denting the interior.

Forgot to take the picture when I was removing the vent but nevertheless, easy job with the trim tools. After you have removed the vent, the first thing is to remove the plastic trim and separate the grills.

It will look something like this and you need to remove the grills by detaching it from the holder.


Please exercise caution as the holders are very fragile, you may break it. Once that you are done, fit the p3 gauge onto the holder – there are grooves that will fit onto the holder so its hard to miss this one.

Before you fit the gauge, make sure the circled item goes onto the centre of the vent – this will control the vent that you can still move the direction (left/right) of the vent.


Once you have done that, now fit the grills back to the vent. Make sure that the side are tugged in properly or you wouldn’t be able to fit the trim.


80% done and ready to bolt the vent back onto the car.



Before you proceed to put the vent in, please hook up the control units and make sure that it is running – you need to start the car. Actually if possible, please check the unit before the installation begins, so you don’t have to waste time.


Tuck in the wires accordingly and you are done!


Blue and white that matches the dial